Memungut Sepuing Cerita Lampau dari Adonara

By Admin Pariwisata 22 Mei 2019, 13:53:28 WIBCagar Budaya

Memungut Sepuing Cerita Lampau dari Adonara

Belum terlalu siang ketika kami memasuki desa Adonara. Tiga motor ojek yang mengantar kami tiba di sini, menunggu rombongan lainnya yang menumpang pada sebuah mobil dari pelabuhan Tanah Merah. Pemandangan Danau Kota Kaya yang indah dari kejauhan menyambut kami. Rumah-rumah penduduk yang berjejer bersebelahan dengan danau ini menambah kesan damai dan tenangnya tinggal di sini.

Pak Arifin Ape yang sedari tadi menunggu kami di salah satu rumah sederhana di tengah kampung itu menyambut kami. Pak Wayan, ketua tim peneliti dari Balai Arkeologi Bali dan saya mampir sebentar di dalam rumah beratapkan ilalang dan berdinding belahan bambu ini. Pak Arifin menjelaskan bahwa rumah ini adalah tempat tinggal awal warga Adonara yang datang dari seberang. Ketika anggota tim peneliti lainnya tiba bersama Pak Muhammad Hamka di desa Adonara, mereka justru tertarik dengan meriam-meriam sisa peninggalan kolonial yang ada di sekitar rumah ini. Bahkan ada dua pucuk meriam yang diletakan begitu saja di bawah kolong tempat tidur, berdebu dan tak terawat. Ada sepucuk meriam bertuliskan huruf Arab Melayu yang tertindih di antara bambu-bambu di samping rumah. Di depan rumah, ada sepucuk lagi yang bertuliskan bahasa Belanda dengan angka tahun yang masih sangat jelas terbaca. Meriam yang terbuat dari besi sudah banyak yang karatan, sedangkan yang terbuat dari campuran perunggu masih nampak ‘kinclong’, salah satunya yang bertuliskan bahasa Belanda tadi.

Pak Hedwiq Priatmoko yang sering saya panggil Mas Moko lalu sigap mengeluarkan alat ukur dan kameranya dan mendokumentasikan semuanya. Sepertinya Pak Moko sangat bersemangat sekali dengan meriam-meriam ini. Tak hanya di sekitar rumah ini, oleh Pak Mansyur Musli kami lalu diajak untuk melihat beberapa pucuk lagi yang berada di rumah warga desa Adonara lainnya. Ada yang diletakan begitu saja di atas batu, dekat drum air, jadi pijakan kaki di tangga, bahkan ada yang nyaris terkubur.

“Sungguh sayang sekali, meriam-meriam ini tak terawat dengan baik. Sebaiknya dikumpulkan di satu tempat dan dirawat dengan baik sebagi warisan sejarah yang berharga,” ungkap Mas Moko. Betul itu mas!

Kami pun diajak untuk bertemu dengan seorang sesepuh Desa Adonara, (maaf saya lupa namanya). Rambutnya sudah memutih, dan penglihatannya sudah berfungsi dengan baik lagi. Namun, daya ingatnya luar biasa! Bapak tua ini mampu mengingat dengan jelas setiap peristiwa sejarah yang diingatnya, bahkan tanggal, bulan dan tahunnya pun diingat dengan sangat jelas. Kami seperti sedang dihadapkan dengan sebuah buku ensiklopedia tentang Adonara. Semua cerita dihafalnya dengan sangat baik dan rapih. Ini luar biasa!

Menjelang siang, kami bergerak menuju ke sisa reruntuhan benteng yang ada di depan pintu masuk desa Adonara. Hanya beberapa bagian yang masih berdiri yakni tepat di jalan masuk ke desa, namun sebagian lainnya hanya menyisahkan susunan batu.  

“Bisa saja ini hanya satu sudut bentengnya saja. Bisa jadi bentengnya bisa lebih besar lagi ukurannya,” respon Mas Moko setelah mengukur dan mendokumentasikan sisa bentengnya. Bisa jadi, mas!

Setelah menikmati makan siang di atas sebuah bukit dengan pemandangan Danau Kota Kaya yang tenang, kami lalu berangkat menuju destinasi berikutnya, Desa Sagu. Perjalanan dengan mobil pick up menjadi pilihan yang sangat menarik karena dapat melihat dan menyaksikan pemandangan serta aktifitas masyarakat di sekitarnya. Sesekali tersentak karena jalanan yang tak mulus, dan itu adalah pengalaman yang menarik.

Di Sagu, kami menemui sebuah tugu marmer putih bergambar jangkar kapal setinggi kira-kira tiga meter lebih, di tiga sisi tugu, ada rangkaian kalimat berbahasa Belanda. Mas Moko dan anggota tim lainnya segera sibuk mendokumentasikannya.

“Di sini orang sebut makam letnan, dan di samping kiri dan kanan adalah makam pengawalnya. Mereka meninggal di Hinga dalam sebuah peperangan dan jasadnya dikuburkan di sini,” jelas seorang ibu di situ. Tugu itu sendiri sepertinya sudah miring sehingga gambar jangkarnya sudah tidak simetris dengan bagian bawahnya. “Waktu gempa beberapa tahun lalu, tugu ini jadi miring. Sempat beberapa kali dicoba untuk dibenarkan tapi tetap tidak bisa,” lanjut salah satu warga di situ. Warga Sagu memang mayoritas beragama muslim, namun tetap menjaga eksistensi tugu dan makam ini. Sebuah semangat toleransi yang patut dibanggakan.

Kami kemudian menuju ke rumah Pak Muhammad Hamka. Di depan rumahnya, ada sisa bangunan yang terdiri dari ratusan batu ceper setinggi kurang lebih dua meter yang disusun dengan rapih mengitari kompleks yang dulunya menjadi pusat kerajaan Adonara di Sagu. “Batu-batu ini dibawa dari sebuah tanjung di ujung sana,” terang Pak Hamka. Di depan rumah Pak Hamka, ada sebuah sumur tua yang diyakini sebagai sumur raja dan masih berfungsi dengan baik. Tepat di sebelah rumahnya, ada sebuah makam besar yang berada di dalam kompleks sebuah sekolah. Dan, itu adalah makam raja Adonara.

Di teras rumahnya, dua meja seperti keramik besar berwarna putih peninggalan kerajaan Adonara masih terawat dengan baik. Beberapa foto lama berjejer di dinding rumahnya. Pak Hamka lalu menunjukan sebuah foto lama yang memperlihatkan bangunan lama Istana Raja Adonara. Dalam gambar tersebut, terlihat sebuah rumah berukuran besar dan lebar, beratapkan seng merah. Sayang, bangunan ini sudah dipugar dan tidak dibangun lagi. Pak Hamka sendiri sebagai salah satu anggota keluarga dari keturunan raja sangat berharap dan berniat untuk membangun kembali bangunan itu meski sadar semua itu butuh waktu dan dana yang tidak sedikit. Tetap semangat pak!   

Istri Pak Hamka lalu menghidangkan kami beberapa gelas teh panas.

“Wah, ini belum buka khan pak?” tanya saya.

“Ah, tidak apa-apa. Minum saja, kalian khan dari Larantuka, terus ke Adonara lalu ke sini lagi, pasti capek dan haus,” balasnya sambil tersenyum.

“Wah, terima kasih banyak loh, pak!”

Srrrrrpp! Ah ….

Perbincangan kami bersama Pak Hamka dan Pak Arifin begitu akrab sore itu, ditemani teh panas yang dihidangkan sang istri dan anaknya yang manis dengan kerudung putihnya, Apri.

Sore belum benar-benar hilang namun kami harus pamit karena gelap pasti datang tepat waktu. Setelah dilepas senyum ramah Pak Hamka sekeluarga, kami lalu kembali menelusuri tanah Adonara, memungut sepuing kisah lampau dari Adonara, tanah yang menyimpan masih banyak kisah lampau yang menunggu untuk ditulis dan diingat oleh generasi yang akan datang, agar akar kelak kokoh berdiri.

Berrye, 12/05/2019

 

 

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